Preface Introduction 1. How to Use this Book and Tools of the Trade How to Use this Book Tools of the Trade Types of Pins Types of Rulers Marking Tools Needles Thread Machines Pressing/ Ironing Hardware and Tools 2. Working with Alterations, Repairs and Clients Before you get started The Bare Necessities Sewing Space The Deluxe Sewing Space Step Two: The Logistics of Clothing Alterations and Repairs Finding the Problem Step Three: Working with clients Identifying fabric Fiber Content Structure: Wovens, Knits, and Nonwovens 3. Bottom Hems Shortening Measuring Pants, Shorts, Skirts and Dresses for Hemming Serge and Blind Hem Three Methods: Blind Hemming Machine, Home Machine Blind Hem, or Hand Stitch Twice Turn Hem Cadet Cut Hem Knitwear Coverstitch Hem Knitwear Faux Coverstitch using a Twin Needle Twice-Turned Hem On Eveningwear and Formalwear Napkin Roll Hem Hand Stitch Hems: Cross Stitch, Vertical Hem Stitch, Prick/ Pick Stitch Cross Stitch Vertical Hem Stitch Prick/ Pick Stitch Lengthening Bottom Hems: Maxing Out Adding Fabric Bias Tape Adding Fabric Adding Lace 4. Top Hems Knitwear Coverstitch Knitwear Faux Coverstitch using a Twin Needle Shirttail Hem Lined Suit Jacket Hem Unlined Suit Jacket Hems Maxing Out Seam Allowance Lengthening Suit Jacket Hems 5. Taking in Bottoms Back Gap Waistbands: Using Elastic Side Seams/ Outseams & Inseam Tips Sample Measurement Table Inseams Darts/Pleats/ Tucks Ease/ Gathers Taking in a Skirt or Pant with a Side Zipper Side Seams Inseams Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance, Elastic, or Gussets Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance Waistbands: Using Elastic Waistbands: Using Gussets/ Farbic Panels 6. Letting Out Bottoms Side Seams Inseams Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance, Elastic, or Gussets Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance 7. Jeans Taking in the Center Back/ Back Gap: Jeans Jeans Hem with Option to Distress Original Jean Hem Taking in the Outseams/ Inseams 8. Taking in Tops Side Seams Princess Seams/ Darts on Front Top Pleats/ Tucks Boned Bodices in Formalwear 9. Letting Out Tops Side Seams Panels Boned Bodices in Formalwear 10. Sleeves, Shoulders and Armscyes When to Say No! Taking up Shoulders Taking in Sleeves or Sleeves and Side Seams Lined Suit Jacket Sleeve Hems Button Down Shirt Cuffs and Plackets 11. Crotch Seams How to Measure Crotch Seams Taking in Crotch Seams Letting out Crotch Seams Adding Gussets 12. Necklines and Collars Collar/ Neckline Types Reshaping Necklines Collar Adjustments 13. Repairs Buttons How to Sew on a Button that has Fallen off or is Loose on a Garment two and Four-Hole Button Shank Button Decorative Patches/ Visible Mending Iron-On Patches Stitch Witchery/ Fusible Bonding Patches About Darning Machine Darning Hand Darning Zippers Anatomy of a Zipper Types of Zippers When to Replace a Zipper When to Fix a Zipper/ Replace a Zipper Head Replacing a Zipper Head on Non-Separating/Closed/ Closed at Both Ends/ Continuous Zippers Replacing a Zipper Head on for Separating Zippers When to Replace a Zipper Head When to Say No Linings Replacing or Rethreading Drawstrings Hook and Loop Tape Resources Glossary Acknowledgements Index
