Introduction vi PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Geography 3, Climate 5, Natural history and conservation 5, Historical summary 12, Government and politics 17, Economy 19, People 20, Language 21, Religion 21, Education 21, Culture 22 Chapter 2 Practical Information 23 When to visit 23, Highlights 23, Suggested itineraries 24, Tour operators 24, Tourist information 26, Red tape 26, Getting there and away 27, Health 32, Safety 33, Women travellers 34, Travellers with a disability 35, Ethnic minority travellers 35, Gay and lesbian travellers 35, Travelling with children 36, What to take 36, Money 36, Getting around 38, Accommodation 41, Eating and drinking 43, Public holidays and festivals 44, Shopping and entertainment 46, Sports and other activities 48, Weights and measures 53, Time 53, Photography 53, Media and communications 54, Property development 55, Travelling responsibly 57 PART TWO THE GUIDE 59 Chapter 3 Girne (Kyrenia) 61 History 62, Getting there and around 63, Where to stay 63, Where to eat and drink 66, Nightlife 68, Other practicalities 70, Shopping 70, Places of worship 71, What to see and do 71, South from Girne 77, West from Girne 89, East from Girne 110 Chapter 4 Lefkosa (Nicosia) 125 Getting there and around 126, Where to stay 127, Where to eat and drink 128, What to see and do 129, Across the Mesaoria Plain 144 Chapter 5 Gazimagusa (Famagusta) 147 Getting there and around 147, Where to stay 147, Where to eat and drink 148, Beaches 149, What to see and do 149, Salamis 159, Th e Royal Tombs and Necropolis of Salamis 165, St Barnabas Monastery 167, Enkomi: Bronze Age capital of Cyprus 168, Churches on the Mesaoria Plain 169 Chapter 6 The Karpas Peninsula 171 Where to stay and eat 173, Beaches 176, Touring the Karpas Peninsula 177 Appendix 1 Language 185 Appendix 2 Place Names 191 Appendix 3 Further Information 192 Index 196 Index of advertisers 200