The first treaty ports in China were opened in 1843. Here, for nearly a century, foreign traders ruled their own settlements, administered their own laws, controlled their own police forces and ran the customs service. Despite typhoons, disease, banditry and riots, merchants and missionary families in the treaty ports led as far as possible a foreign life. In 1943 the treaty ports were returned to China and most of their inhabitants interned by the Japanese. Yet the record of their residency remains in Shanghai's solid office buildings, in Tientsin's mock Tudor facades, and in the Edwardian villas of Peitaiho and Amoy. The last inhabitants of the treaty ports are also still alive: through their reminiscences and the accounts of their predecessors Frances Wood recalls a foreign life lived in a foreign land.