PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Geography and climate 3, Natural history 5, History 8, Government and politics 15, Sami economy 15, People 16, Language 16, Religion and mythology 18, Culture 19 Chapter 2 Practical Information 21 When to visit 21, Highlights - and distances 22, Suggested itineraries 23, Tour operators 24, Red tape 26, Embassies 26, Getting there and away 26, Health and safety 27, Women travellers 29, Gay travellers 29, Travellers with a disability 29, Travelling with children 29, What to take 30, Money and banking 31, Getting around 31, Accommodation 33, Eating and drinking 33, Public holidays and festivals 35, Shopping 36, Arts and entertainment 37, Photography 37, Media and communications 37, Time 39, Cultural etiquette 39 PART TWO THE GUIDE Chapter 3 Swedish Lapland: Lulea to Riksgransen 43 Lulea 43, Arvidsjaur 50, Arjeplog 54, Northwest to Jakkvik and Vuoggatjalme 55, Jokkmokk 56, Gallivare 63, Kiruna 68, Icehotel and Jukkasjarvi 74, Abisko and around 78, Hiking from Abisko: the Kungsleden trail 82 Chapter 4 Narvik and the Islands 85 Narvik 85, The islands: Vesteralen and Lofoten 90 Chapter 5 From the Gulf of Bothnia to the Arctic Ocean 109 Tornio and Haparanda 109, Pajala and around 116, Muonio and around 122, Kaaresuvanto and Karesuando 124, Kilpisjarvi and Treriksroeset 126 Chapter 6 Finnish Lapland: Rovaniemi to the Finnmark Plateau 131 Rovaniemi 132, Northwest from Rovaniemi: towards Kautokeino 142, Kautokeino 150, Northeast from Rovaniemi: towards Karasjok 154, Inari 160, North from Inari: Kaamanen and Utsjoki 164, East from Rovaniemi 171 Chapter 7 Norwegian Lapland: Tromso to Kirkenes 179 Tromso 181, Alta 193, Towards Hammerfest: Skaidi 199, Hammerfest 199, Towards the North Cape 204, The North Cape 208, Moving on from the North Cape: towards Kirkenes 211, Kirkenes 212 Appendix 1 Language 219 Appendix 2 Glossary of Finnish, Norwegian, Sami and Swedish terms 225 Appendix 3 Further Information 227
