PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Geography 3, Climate 6, Natural history and conservation 6, History 8, Economy 50, People 62, Language 67, Religion 68, Culture 71 Chapter 2 Practical Information 77 When to visit 77, Highlights 77, Suggested itineraries 79, Tour operators 79, Red tape 82, Embassies and consulates 83, Getting there and away 85, Health 89, Safety 93, What to take 93, Money 93, Getting around 94, Accommodation 95, Eating and drinking 96, Nightlife 97, Shopping 98, Photography 100, Media and communications 100, Time zone 103, Cultural etiquette 103 PART TWO THE GUIDE 107 Chapter 3 Pyongyang 108 Geography 109, History 109, Getting there and away 116, Getting around 116, Where to stay 122, Where to eat and drink 124, Entertainment and nightlife 127, Shopping 127, Other practicalities 127, What to see and do 128 Chapter 4 Pyongyang to Sariwon, Kaesong and Panmunjom 153 Sariwon 153, Kaesong 158, Panmunjom and the DMZ 165 Chapter 5 Nampo, Mount Kuwol and Haeju 171 Nampo 172, Mount Kuwol 177, Haeju 179 Chapter 6 North from Pyongyang: Pyongsong and Mount Myohyang 184 Pyongsong 184, Myohyangsan 187 Chapter 7 East Coast Central: Pyongyang to Wonsan 197 Wonsan 197 Chapter 8 Wonsan to Mount Kumgang, or Kumgangsan 204 Kumgang flora and fauna 204, Kumgangsan 205 Chapter 9 East Coast to Tanchon 215 Hamhung 215, Hungnam 218, Tanchon 219, Komdok 220 Chapter 10 Northernmost Corner 223 Chongjin 226, Chilbosan 229, Rajin and Sonbong, collectively known as Rason 232, Hoeryong 239 Chapter 11 Mount Paektu/Paektusan 243 Flora and fauna 245, Getting there and away 245, Where to stay 246, What to see and do 246 Chapter 12 The Border with China and Beyond 252 Sinuiju 252, Dandong 256, South from Dandong 262, North from Dandong 262 Appendix 1 Language 271 Appendix 2 Further Information 274 Index 284