Introduction vi PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Facts and figures 3, Geography and climate 5, Natural history and conservation 7, History 12, Politics 45, Economy 46, People 48, Language 48, Religion 49, Education 50, Culture 51 Chapter 2 Practical Information 56 When to visit 56, Highlights 56, Suggested itineraries 58, Tour operators 60, Red tape 62, Tourist information 63, Getting there and away 64, Health 67, Safety and security 69, Women travellers 70, Gay travellers 70, Disabled travellers 70, What to take 70, Money and budgeting 73, Opening times 74, Getting around 74, Accommodation 78, Eating and drinking 80, Public holidays and festivals 84, Shopping 86, Arts and entertainment 87, Activities 88, Photography 93, Media and communications 96, Business/time 99, Buying property 99, Cultural etiquette 99, Interacting with local people 100, Travelling positively 103 PART TWO THE GUIDE 105 Chapter 3 Sarajevo 107 History 107, Getting there and away 112, Getting around 113, Tourist information 114, Tour operators 115, Where to stay 116, Where to eat and drink 119, Shopping 123, Other practicalities 125, What to see and do 125, Excursions from Sarajevo 137 Chapter 4 Around Sarajevo 140 Ski centres 141, Highland villages 146, To the east and southeast of Sarajevo 149 Chapter 5 Herzegovina 163 Neretva River 164, Mostar 164, Medugorje 188, Ljubuski 192, Siroki Brijeg 193, Grude 194, Capljina 195, Neum 196, Stolac 198, Trebinje 200, Konjic 204, Around Konjic 207, Jablanica 207, Prozor and Ramsko Lake 209, West Bosnia 209 Chapter 6 Central Bosnia 215 History 215, Getting there and away 217, Suggested itineraries 217, Zenica 218, Vranduk 221, Kraljeva Sutjeska 223, Visoko 231, Kresevo 237, Fojnica 238, Vares 241, Olovo 241, Travnik 242, Vlasic Mountain 247, Bugojno 249, Prusac 250 Chapter 7 Northwest Bosnia 252 Banja Luka 252, Bihac 265, Pliva River region 271, Jajce 273, Sipovo 276, Drvar 278 Chapter 8 Northeast Bosnia 280 Tuzla 281, Bijeljina 288, Srebrenica 290, East Posavina 293, Srebrenik 294, Gradacac 294, Gracanica 295, Doboj 296, Teslic 297, Tesanj 297, Maglaj 298, Zavidovici 299, Kladanj 301 Appendix 1 Language 303 Appendix 2 Further Information 307 Index 309 Index of advertisers 312
