At its inception, the 'Little Black Dress', designed by Coco Chanel, was radically modern: a masculine-inspired, anti-traditionalist female attire - yet it has remained a wardrobe staple for almost a century. Bringing together international scholars, curators and fashion writers, this volume explores how black's paradoxical meanings have made the LBD simultaneously expressive of respect and rebellion, sophistication and dissident sexualities, piety and perversion. The book also looks at the smart technologies which are responding to the demand for the fashion industry to be more aware of sustainability.