Prelims (5 pp)
Introduction (4 pp)
In this easy-to-access manual you will find advice and instructions on a full range of topics and techniques necessary for constructing clothing and accessories.
With information about fabrics, notions, equipment, and commercial patterns, readers will feel confident to tackle more complex projects and know they will be able to achieve a professional finish every time. With the help of the troubleshooting chapter, any sewing problems can be easily prevented or solved.
Inspiration and ideas for embellishing fabrics and garments are also included to allow unique designs to be created.
Chapter One/ Equipment (16 pp)
With numerous gadgets available to aid sewing techniques, it's helpful to know which of these are essential when you are new to sewing-this section walks you through all you need to know. Additional pieces of equipment can be added to your tool box as and when you need them.
* Choosing the essential kit
* More about equipment-for marking fabric, pinning, sewing, cutting, and measuring
* Machines and accessories-sewing machines, sergers, blind hemmers, irons, and specialist presser feet/attachments
Chapter Two/ Fabrics and notions (16 pp)
With beautiful fabrics and haberdashery just waiting to be purchased, an understanding and knowledge of their construction and handling helps to bring about wise choices. This chapter gives the information required to select the most appropriate materials and notions for all types of sewing project, arranged in an easy to find manner.
* Notions-zippers, buttons, fasteners, poppers, toggles, tapes, ribbons, braids, cords, lace edging, threads, interfacings, and stabilizers
* Fabrics-examples with photographs of swatches, as well as how to choose, use, handle, and sew them
* How to measure
* Preparation of fabric before sewing including finding direction of nap, right/wrong side, and care and laundering
* Using vintage fabrics and laces
Chapter Three/ Basic Sewing (22 pp)
In this section we cover the essential information for even the most novice of sewers, taking nothing for granted,
and providing a perfect sewing foundation. Cutting, joining, and finishing fabrics and choosing the most appropriate techniques set out in a progressive order.
* Terminology-the language of sewing
* Hand stitching-running, back, blanket, buttonhole
* Threading and handling a sewing machine
* Beginners basics-plain seam, simple hem, and easy edge neatening for bags and easily made garments
* More seams-flat fell and mock jeans*, French, and hairline*
* More hems-hand and machine alternatives, double folded, single folded, machine blind hem*, narrow rolled (by hand), narrow rolled (serger), narrow rolled (sewing machine), faced, lace edged*
* Darts-single and double ended
* Edges-straight stitched, zigzag, overcast, serged, bound
Chapter Four/ Techniques (76 pp)
Whether you need to learn how to carry out a specific task or just need a reminder, here we provide comprehensive step-by-step instructions for a whole range of techniques.
* Zippers-centred, lapped, invisible*, hand sewn, on show, pants**
* Fastenings-poppers (covered, sewn, clamped), buttons (covered, two/four hole, shank, toggles), buttonholes
(automatic, manual, bound, on sheer fabric, using gimp), belt buckles, hooks and eyes/bars, eyelets
* Collars-shirt*, jacket (quick tailored revers), neck band*, Peter pan style, faced neckline
* Cuffs-shirt placket*, shirt cuff*, jacket, flounce
* Pockets-patch, welt*, trouser side**, flaps, breast pocket
* Waists-easy waistband, firm waist**, elastic casing, attached elastic*, faced waist, bound waist, belt loops
* Linings-skirt, jacket, dress, bag*
* Yokes-shirt/dress*
* Setting in sleeves (gathered and eased**)
* Piping
* Rouleau/shoe string straps
Chapter Five/ Patterns - buying and making (32 pp )
Here we include all you need to know about buying, using, and adapting commercial paper patterns and what to consider when making your own.
* Using commercial patterns-symbols, using size charts, laying out fabric, transferring pattern markings, following instructions
* Measuring the figure for an accurate fit and using standard measurement charts
* Adapting patterns to fit** (adjusting length, taking in, letting out)
* Adding your own je ne sais quoi!-making skirts longer, changing sleeve styles, creating panels, adding pleats or tucks, mixing fabric textures
* Making a toile to aid fitting and test out style variations
* Making your own simple patterns, for example; a babies bib, shopping bag, make-up bag, basic skirt, child's pinafore
Chapter Six/ The Sewing Community (6 pp)
Make new friends, and perhaps money, from sewing through the network of opportunities available.
* Workshops, online videos, blogs, sewing cafes, qualifications
* Selling your work-craft fairs, online, party plan
* Costing-materials, time, hidden expenses, and profit
Chapter Seven/ Customising Clothes (32 pp)
This chapter provides a reference for ideas and inspiration for embellishing and decorating fabrics, clothes and accessories.
* Decorative stitching and creating surface textures-top stitching, couching*, machine smocking, drawn threads, beads and sequins, ribbons, and braids
* Using gadgets-specialist feet and attachments or needles (wing needle hem*)
* Applique*
* Patchwork and quilting
* Free-motion sewing and embroidery
* Using a serger to produce decorative techniques
Chapter Eight/ Couture techniques (20 pp)
Discover traditional finishing methods from the couture houses with these little-known techniques.
* Hong Kong finish*
* Balanced darts
* Traditional pad stitching
* Couture hem
* Horsehair braid hem
* Interlining (what to use and how to apply it)
* Lining and binding a skirt in one*
* Lining a waistband
* Boning seams for bodices and corsets
Chapter Nine/ Troubleshooting (16 pp)
When a finish looks less than professional, use this section to establish what is wrong and find out how to put it right.
* Seams-shifting, crinkled or stretched seams and how to stabilise them
* Hems-rippled hems on stretchy fabric (perfect T-shirt hem*), easing out tucks for a smooth finish
* Facings-how to prevent flip out armhole facings
* Necklines-achieving symmetry, stabilizing stretched or out of shape necklines
* Jacket edges-stabilizing with tapes
* Pockets-overcoming problems
* Collars-creating symmetrical collars with suitable support
* Fraying edges-suitable solutions
* Cutting out-cutting fabrics with attitude!
Glossary, Abbreviations, and Useful Charts (6 pp)
Index and Credits (5 pp)
