Introduction vii PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Geography 3, Climate 4, Natural history and conservation 4, History 9, Government and politics 22, Economy 23, People 24, Language 27, Religion 28, Education 35, Culture 35 Chapter 2 Practical Information 47 When to visit 47, Highlights 47, Suggested itineraries 48, Tour operators 48, Tourist information 49, Red tape 49, Embassies and consulates 52, Getting there and away 52, Health 54, Safety 63, Women travellers 64, Gay/lesbian travellers 65, Disabled travellers 65, What to take 65, Money 66, Budgeting 68, Getting around 68, Accommodation 73, Eating and drinking 74, Public holidays and festivals 77, Shopping 80, Entertainment 81, Photography 81, Media and communications 82, Business 83, Living in Haiti 84, Cultural etiquette 86, Travelling positively 87 PART TWO THE GUIDE 93 Chapter 3 Port-au-Prince 95 History 95, Getting there and away 96, Orientation 97, Getting around 101, Tour operators 101, Where to stay 101, Where to eat 105, Entertainment and activities 108, Shopping 110, Other practicalities 112, What to see and do 114 Chapter 4 Around Port-au-Prince 127 South of Port-au-Prince 127, East of Port-au-Prince 132, North of Port-au-Prince 136, West of Port-au-Prince 139 Chapter 5 Southern Haiti 143 Jacmel 143, Towards the Dominican Republic border 154, Heading west from Jacmel 155, Aquin and Saint Louis du Sud 155, Les Cayes 157, Ile-a-Vache 161, Port Salut 162, Port-a-Piment 164, Camp Perrin 166, Macaya National Park 167, Jeremie 167, Abricots 172, Dame Marie and Anse d'Hainault 173, Pestel 174 Chapter 6 Northern Haiti 175 Cap-Haitien 175, Milot 184, Labadie 189, The Plaine du Nord 191, Limbe 193, Fort Liberte 194, Ouanaminthe 197, Port-de-Paix 197, Ile de la Tortue 200, Mole Saint- Nicholas 201 Chapter 7 The Artibonite Valley and Central Plateau 207 Gonaives 207, Saint-Marc 211, Marchand Dessalines 213, Petite Riviere de l'Artibonite and Deschapelles 214, Mirebalais 215, Hinche 217 Appendix 1 Language 221 Appendix 2 Further Information 225 Index 228