Despite being a magnet for nostalgia trippers and Habsburg fiends, there's much more than chocolate cake and waltzes lurking behind the porticoes of Vienna's grandiloquent Baroque palaces and in the mezzanines of its elegant nineteenth century apartment buildings. In particular, Vienna's vibrant art scene was given a contemporary jolt with the arrival of the MuseumsQuartier arts complex, and further enriched by the renovation of the world famous Albertina graphic art gallery and the reopening of the Palais Liechtenstein in 2004. With a quarter of a million fewer inhabitants than at the turn of the 20th century, the city is currently a spacious, fluid, multicultural arena whose enviable standard of living is bolstered by local commitment to investing in public transport, leisure and cultural activities and hi-tech industry. With the celebration of the 250th anniversary of Mozart's birth in 2006, Vienna marshalls one of its most enduring icons to consolidate its status as the capital of classical music, while inviting maverick theatre director Peter Sellars to give a contemporary spin to the concepts underlying the composer's work. This edition contains features on Vienna's signature fin-de-siecle architectural marvels and the Danube waterfront's current flirtation with the skyscraper. It is the best English language coverage of the city's feisty restaurant scene, chilled club culture, historic cafes and bucolic wine taverns. On publication of the previous edition, local listings weekly 'Falter' feared regulars would no longer find a table in their favourite watering holes. It gives full details of Vienna's ever-expanding family of museums and galleries, with features on the newly reopened Palais Liechtenstein and the latest developments at the Museumsquartier - Vienna's take on the Centre Pompidou.