Smallest of the Central American nations. Get off the beaten track. Monkeys or motmots, jacanas or jaguars, turtles or tapirs, sloths or sharks. Full colour maps. Exotic birdlife. Cacophony in the canopy. Cloudforest, rain forest, dry forest. Where to eat, sleep and drink. Diving, trekking, cycling. Best festivals. Mud baths, thermal pools. Classic volcanoes smoke, bubble, hiss and explode. Secluded coves, rocky outcrops, palm fringed golden beaches. Costa Rica: mysterious, magical, secretive...