Introduction x PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Geography 3, Climate 5, Natural history 6, Conservation 20, History 23, The cocaine trade 31, Government and politics 33, Economy 35, People 39, Language 44, Religion 44, Education 45, Social structure 45, Culture 47 Chapter 2 Practical Information 63 When to visit 63, Highlights 63, Tour operators 64, Red tape 66, Getting there and away 68, Health 70, Safety 81, Cruise passengers 86, Gay/lesbian rights 88, What to take 89, Money 91, Budgeting 92, Getting around 93, Accommodation 99, Eating and drinking 100, Public holidays 102, Festivals 103, Shopping 107, Photography 108, Media and communications 108, Business 111, Buying property 113, Cultural etiquette 113, Living in Colombia 115, Travelling positively 115 PART TWO THE GUIDE 119 Chapter 3 Bogota 120 History 121, Geography 122, Climate 123, Architecture 123, Getting there and around 123, Tourist information 129, Where to stay 130, Where to eat and drink 134, Entertainment and nightlife 137, Shopping 140, Sport 141, Other practicalities 141, What to see and do 143, Around Bogota 151 Chapter 4 North of Bogota 156 History 156, Getting there and around 156, Boyaca 158, Santander 177, Norte de Santander 191 Chapter 5 Los Llanos 198 History 198, The ecosystem of Los Llanos 199, The road from Bogota 200, Villavicencio 202, Around Villavicencio 207 Chapter 6 San Andres Archipelago 218 History 220, People 222, Language 222, Fauna and flora 223, Practicalities 225, Diving in the archipelago 225, Isla San Andres 230, San Luis 241, Isla Providencia 242, Isla Santa Catalina 250 Chapter 7 Amazonia 252 History 254, Ecological concerns 255, People 256, Leticia 257, Around Leticia 271, Exploring the Yavari River 277, Benjamin Constant 281, Parque Nacional Cahuinari 282, Tabatinga 283, Santa Rosa 285 Chapter 8 The Southwest Interior 286 Valle del Cauca 286, Cali 288, Around Cali 296, Buga 298, Around Buga 300, Huila and Cauca 300, Neiva 301, Around Neiva 302, Popayan 310, Around Popayan 315, Narino 316, Pasto 317, Around Pasto 319 Chapter 9 The Northwest Interior 323 Antioquia 323, Medellin 325, Around Medellin 342, Santa Fe de Antioquia 350, Zona Cafetera (Eje Cafetero) 353, Manizales 355, Around Manizales 360, Pereira 363, Around Pereira 367, Armenia 371, Around Armenia 374 Chapter 10 The Pacific Coast 383 Flora and fauna 385, Getting there and around 386, Practicalities 386, Bahia Solano 387, Playa Almejal 389, Parque Nacional Ensenada de Utria 392, El Valle 393, Buenaventura 394, Bahia Malaga 396, San Cipriano 397, Nuqui 398