Redpoint: The Self-Coached Climber's Guide to Redpoint and On-Sight Climbing by Dan Hague
The first in-depth book on redpointing, where the climber does not weight the rope or pull or stand on manmade equipment Assessing your redpoint and on-sight skills, choosing a route, and practicing with learning burns The best ways to use equipment and safest belay methods and rope tricks for working routes Tips for preparing mentally, physically, and emotionally for flash and on-sight burns, climbs that you haven't attempted previously"