What to see and do if you can't stay long - Paradors, hotels, resorts, and inns for every budget - Wonderful dining--conch fritters on a veranda, nouvelle Caribbean fare in a hacienda, asopao in a bistro, and more - Where to hike, swim, sail, scuba, snorkel, golf - The best of old San Juan, and excursions to Culebra and Vieques - The hippest spots for music and dancing - Special feature--detailed maps locating dining and lodging