Now independent, this Bradt guide is a must-buy for visitors from the country's diaspora (believed to number over a million), for the many NGOs there and, as always, for those keen to explore off the beaten track. Ringed by high mountains crossed by a series of rulers over the centuries, the country boasts Ottoman mosques, Tito-esque administration buildings, Serbian Orthodox churches, monasteries, vineyards and extravagant KLA war memorials. Pristina offers a surprising contrast with its growing number of vibrant restaurants, bars and shops.