Introduction vi PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Geography and climate 3, Natural history 4, History 9, Government and politics 15, Economy 15, People and culture 16 Chapter 2 Practical Information 20 When to visit 20, Faroese highlights 20, The weather 22, Information and maps 22, Tour operators 23, Embassies and consulates 23, Getting there and away 23, Health and safety 25, What to take 26, Money and costs 27, Getting around the islands 27, Accommodation 29, Eating and drinking 29, Public holidays 31, Shopping 32, Arts and entertainment 33, Customs and tax-free goods 33, Media, communications and time 34, Interacting with local people 35, Giving something back 36 PART TWO THE GUIDE 37 Chapter 3 Torshavn 39 Getting there and away 42, Getting around 43, Tourist and weather information 43, Where to stay 43, Where to eat 47, Entertainment and nightlife 48, Other practicalities 50, What to see and do 50 Chapter 4 Around Torshavn 61 Kirkjubur 63, Nolsoy 66, Hestur 69, Koltur 70 Chapter 5 Streymoy and the Western Islands 73 Where to go 75, Getting around 76, Kollafjordur and around 76, Tjornuvik 81, The western islands: Vagar and Mykines 87 Chapter 6 Eysturoy 101 Where to go 101, Getting around 102, Northern Eysturoy 103, Southern Eysturoy 112 Chapter 7 The Northern Islands 117 Where to go 117, Getting around 118, Bordoy 119, Vidoy 125, Kunoy 128, Kalsoy 129, Northern outposts: Svinoy and Fugloy 131 Chapter 8 The Southern Islands 135 Where to go 137, Getting around 137, Sandoy 138, Skugvoy 142, Stora Dimun 143, Litla Dimun 144, Suduroy 145 Appendix 1 Language 155 Appendix 2 Glossary of Faroese geographical terms 161 Appendix 3 Further Information 163 Index 166 Index of advertisers 168