Grannies practising tai chi at dawn. Noodle carts and nouvelle cuisine. From watery plains to mountain scenery and magical deserted beaches. War wounds and historical symbolism. Temples and jade pagodas. Monarchs, monks, mandarins and merchants. Floating markets and ancient streets. Ancient Chama ruins. Where to eat tigers' testicles and bears' feet. Dancing til the lights come up at Apocalypse Now...