Foreword vi Introduction vii PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 B ackground Information 3 Geography 3, Climate 3, History 4, Government 15, Politics 15, Economy 18, People 19, Language 19, Religion 20, Education 20, Culture 21, Festivals 24, Sport 26 Chapter 2 Natural History 29 Flora 29, Mammals 30, Reptiles, amphibians and invertebrates 40, Birds 41, Marine life 47 Chapter 3 P ractical Information 51 When to visit 51, Highlights 52, Suggested itineraries 55, Tour operators 56, Tourist information 60, Red tape 60, Embassies and consulates 60, Getting there 61, Health 64, Safety 77, Women travellers 78, Gay travellers 78, Disabled travellers 78, Travelling with children 79, What to take 79, Money 81, Budgeting 82, Getting around 83, Accommodation 87, Eating and drinking 89, Public holidays 91, Shopping 91, Arts and entertainment 92, Media and communications 93, Business hours 95, Responsible travel 95, Travelling positively 95 PART TWO THE GUIDE 99 Chapter 4 Georgetown 101 History 101, Getting there 102, Orientation 103, Getting around 103, Where to stay 105, Where to eat and drink 109, Entertainment and nightlife 114, Shopping 115, Other practicalities 117, What to see and do 120 Chapter 5 Around Georgetown 127 South of Georgetown 127, Demerara: west bank 129, Demerara: east bank 132, Demerara: west coast 133, Demerara: east coast 134 Chapter 6 berbice 135 History 135, Getting there and away 137, New Amsterdam 139, Corriverton 143, Corentyne River 146 Chapter 7 lower essequibo, Cuyuni and mazaruni rivers 151 Essequibo River 151, Parika 151, Bartica 156, Essequibo River: east bank 160, Essequibo River: west bank 164, Mazaruni River 169, Cuyuni River 173, Essequibo, Mazaruni and Cuyuni river highlights 174 Chapter 8 essequibo and the Northwest 177 Essequibo 177, Th e Northwest 187 Chapter 9 Central rainforests 205 Getting there and away 205, Linden 208, Rockstone 215, Pakaraima Mountains 217, Kaieteur National Park and Kaieteur Falls 218, Orinduik Falls 222, Iwokrama 224 Chapter 10 the rupununi 239 Biodiversity 240, People 240, Tourism 240, Th e North Rupununi 241, Lethem 277, South Rupununi 286 Appendix further information 295 index 301