One of the richest, most powerful countries on earth - the nation which 'discovered' two thirds of the world and created the first great modern empire - Portual has been for generations the 'poor relation' of Europe. Yet today, writes Marion Kaplan, 'small Portugal is exhilaratingly on the move...' Kaplan evokes its rich and turbulent history, conjuring up the unique Portuguese world of family, football and festa, port, poetry and pousadas.