Introduction vii PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Geography 3, Climate 4, Natural history and conservation 5, History 8, Government and politics 24, Economy 26, People 27, Language 29, Religion 30, Education 33, Culture 34 Chapter 2 Practical Information 39 When to visit 39, Highlights 40, Suggested itineraries 41, Tour operators 42, Tourist information 46, Red tape 46, Lebanese embassies and consulates abroad 48, Getting there and away 49, Health 52, Safety 58, Disabled travellers 60, Women travellers 60, Gay travellers 60, What to take 61, Money 63, Budgeting 63, Getting around 65, Accommodation 67, Eating and drinking 69, Public holidays and annual festivals 71, Shopping 73, Arts and entertainment 74, Photography 75, Media and communications 77, Electricity 82, Business 82, Buying property 83, Cultural etiquette 84, Travelling positively 85 PART TWO THE GUIDE 87 Chapter 3 Beirut 89 Historical overview 92, Getting there 93, Getting around 95, Tourist information 99, Local tour operators 100, Where to stay 102, Where to eat and drink 108, Entertainment and nightlife 110, Shopping 114, Other practicalities 117, What to see and do 122 Chapter 4 Mount Lebanon 137 Beit Mery and Broummana 137, Bsous 143, Skiing and ski resorts 144, Adonis Valley and Afqa Grotto 148, Mount Lebanon coast 149, Jounieh 151, Byblos (Jbail) 155, Amchit 163, Rachana 165 Chapter 5 North Lebanon 167 Batroun 167, Tripoli 172, Qadisha Valley 182, Bcharre 183, Qadisha Valley oor: chapels, caves and monasteries 185, Ehden 187, # e Cedars 189 Chapter 6 The Bekaa Valley 195 Zahle 195, Lebanon's wine industry and vineyards 200, Aanjar 203, Baalbek 207, Hermel 214 Chapter 7 The Chouf Mountains 217 Damour 217, Deir al-Qamar 219, Beiteddine 225, Baakline 228, Moukhtara 229, Chouf Cedar Reserve 230 Chapter 8 South Lebanon 233 Sidon (Saida) 233, Jezzine 246, Mleeta 248, Tyre (Sour) 249, Around Tyre 256 Appendix 1 Language 259 Appendix 2 Glossary 269 Appendix 3 Further Information 276 Index 284