In March 1990, the author spent a week in a small town in Kansas and liked it so much that the following year he went back, and drove 7500 miles through 13 states. This is the story of his quest for the true heart of America, from rodeo in Oklahoma, to pow-wow in South Dakota. The author talks to cowboys and Indians, to preachers and teachers, to oilmen and weathermen, and to Sam Shepard on a movie shoot.