Introduction VII PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Geography 3, Climate 5, The northern lights 5, Natural history and conservation 6, A brief history 15, Government and politics 17, Economy 17, People 17, Language 21 Chapter 2 Practical Information 22 When to visit 22, Highlights and suggested itineraries 22, Tour operators 23, Red tape 26, Embassies 26, Getting there and away 27, Health 28, Safety 29, What to take 29, Money and budgeting 32, Getting around 32, Accommodation 34, Eating and drinking 36, Public holidays, festivals and events 37, Shopping 40, Arts and entertainment 41, Outdoors activities 41, Photography 45, Communications 46, Media 47, Cultural etiquette 47, Travelling positively 48 PART TWO THE GUIDE 49 Chapter 3 Whitehorse 51 History 51, Getting there 52, Getting around 55, Tourist information 56, Tour operators 56, Where to stay 57, Where to eat 62, Entertainment and nightlife 64, Shopping 65, Other practicalities 67, What to see and do 68, Sports and activities 75 Chapter 4 The Alaska Highway 77 History 77, Driving the highway 79, Watson Lake 80, From Watson Lake to Teslin 86, Teslin 88, From Teslin to Whitehorse 89, From Whitehorse to Haines Junction 93, Haines Junction 94, From Haines Junction to Beaver Creek 96, Beaver Creek 99 Chapter 5 Kluane National Park and Reserve 101 History 101, Getting there 103, Tourist information 103, Tour operators and guides 104, Where to stay and eat 105, Klukshu 106, Hiking in Kluane National Park 106, Fishing 110, Canoeing, kayaking and rafting 110, Skiing and showshoeing 111, Mountaineering 112, Mountain biking 113 Chapter 6 Skagway and the South Klondike Highway (plus Haines and Atlin) 115 Skagway 115, Skagway to Carcross 126, Carcross 127, Tagish and the Tagish Road 128, From Carcross to the Alaska Highway 129, Haines 130, Atlin and the Atlin Road 137 Chapter 7 Campbell Country 141 The Campbell Highway 141, The Canol Road 150 Chapter 8 The North Klondike Highway and the Silver Trail 155 Whitehorse to Carmacks 155, Carmacks 157, Carmacks to Stewart Crossing 159, The Silver Trail 161, Stewart Crossing to Dawson 163 Chapter 9 Dawson City 165 History 165, Getting there 170, Getting around 171, Tourist information 172, Tour operators 173, Where to stay 175, Where to eat 179, Entertainment and nightlife 179, Shopping 180, Other practicalities 181, What to see and do: downtown 181, What to see and do: beyond downtown 184, Walks and hikes 187 Chapter 10 The North 191 The Dempster Highway 191, Inuvik 202, Tuktoyaktuk 214, Aklavik 216, Herschel Island 217, Old Crow 219, Paulatuk 219, Sachs Harbour 221, Ulukhaktok 221, National Parks of the Western Arctic 221 PART THREE HIKING AND PADDLING 225 Chapter 11 Wilderness Travel 227 General information 227, Sample packing checklists 230 Chapter 12 Hiking 233 Chilkoot Trail 233, Donjek Route 239 Chapter 13 Paddling 243 Yukon River 243, Big Salmon River 247, Liard River 251 Appendix Further Information 255 Index 258