List of Illustrations Acknowledgments 1 Fashion, Film, Modernity a. Nostra Dea: the goddess of fashion b. Pirandello, cinema, and clothing: elective affinities c. The Tight Frock-Coat: performing dress d. Film, costume, fashion, and intermediality e. Italian style: fashion and film 2 Italian Fashion and Film in the 1910s: From the Futurists to Rosa Genoni a. The Futurists, fashion, film, and performance b. Rosa Genoni: Per una moda italiana: fashioning the diva 3 From the Body of the Diva to the Body of the Nation a. The Italian divas and the gowns of emotions b. Lyda Borelli (18871959): the ethereal melancholic beauty and Ma lamore mio non muore! (love everlasting) c. The veil: modernity in motion in Nino Oxilias Rapsodia Satanica d. Francesca Bertini (18921985): the glamorous embodied e. Nino Oxilias Sangue Bleu (1914) and Gustavo Serenas Assunta Spina (1915) f. Pina Menichelli (18901981): the other woman and the end of an era 4 Fashion, Film, Modernity, under Fascism a. Fashion in motion: the LUCE newsreels b. Rhythms of the modern city: fashion in Corrado DErricos Stramilano (1929) c. Contessa di Parma (Alessandro Blasetti, 1937): a manifesto for the promotion of Italian fashion and Turin as a fashion city d. Grandi Magazzini (1939, Mario Camerini): fashion consumption, gender roles, and work in Milan e. Epilogue: towards a new dawn 5 Launching Italian Style in Cinema and Fashion: The Films of Michelangelo Antonioni a. The fabric of film: Sette canne, un vestito (1949) b. The 1950s: Cronaca di un amore, La signora senza camelie and Le amiche c. The fashion show in Cronaca: a narrative mise en abyme d. Was I a good femme fatale? (Lucia Bose (Clara) in La signora senza camelie) e. The fashion show in Le amiche: the end of the game f. The 1960s: from costume to fashion. LAvventura and beyond g. Outsiders, doubles, wanderers h. Conclusion: a visual tactility 6 Rome, Fashion, Film a. From Hollywood on the Tiber to La Dolce Vita b. Rome as a fashion city in the postwar years 161 c. La Dolce Vita d. La Dolce Vita and its discontents e. Roma (Fellini, 1971): space and time f. The broken watch of history g. The ecclesiastical fashion show 7 After La Dolce Vita: La Grande Bellezza (2013) by Paolo Sorrentino a. Fashion, film, and Rome today: national identity revisited Appendices: a. The Photographic Archive by Giuseppe Palmas (19181977) b. Interview with Fernanda Gattinoni, Rome, June 16, 2000 c. Dressing the Dreams: Interview with Dino TrappettiTirelli Costumi Rome, December 2015 d. Interview with Teresa Allegri, founder of Annamode, Rome, Fondazione Annamode, June 6, 2013 e. Adriana Berselli f. Some notes on the set of Lavventura (1960) by Michelangelo Antonioni g. Cesare Attolini and La Grande Bellezza: Interview with Massimiliano Attolini, Son of Cesare and Grandson of Vincenzo, Founder of the Sartoria Selected Bibliography Filmography Index