'Plus ca change, plus c'est la meme chose': that's Paris, the happiest marriage of ancient and modern. Paris is at once a city actively in step with its time -- excellent public transport system, major architectural projects on the horizon, vibrant and innovative arts -- and as resonant with romance and history as ever: the flagstones the guillotine once stood on are still in situ, the palace of kings that houses the world's largest museum, the Louvre, is as glorious and grandiose as ever. Time Out Paris goes back to the city's roots and monitors its new shoots -- the plans to cut traffic in the centre by 75%, the preparations for the Olympic Games, the new 'boat Metro' service along the Seine, and new developments in every sphere of culture and cuisine.